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2014 年 6 月 3 日 星期二  |
| Classic Styling Incarnate: The Bell & Ross Geneva 123 Watch |
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Sometimes I can’t help but express my fondness for a watch. Those particular models that stay with you in your mind. Maybe you had your eye on it a while back. It’s not that you lost interest, but perhaps other watches came and went in the meantime. And after all is said and done, those reliable watches are always there to make you happy. Before the replica panerai luminor BR-01 instrument was a different flavor of replica rolex. A more innocent time when replica Bell & Ross was still finding itself. The Bell & Ross Geneva 123 is a classic watch. Not by any chronological measure, but rather by the timeless way it seems to go with anything, anywhere. You could blow up the size of the watch and put it on a wall or building and it would be perfectly at home. Legibility is perfect, the sharp hands confidently expressing the time. Black hands on the pristine white face, or polished steel glistening against the serene black, the watch stands out with it sense of being perpetually “in the now.” Balance is an important concept in design. Perfect symmetry provides the best type of balance as it is the most aesthetically pleasing. The Geneva 123 cleverly incorporates the subsidiary seconds and the date window in one vertical upside down “8″ shape. While most watch designs neglect this area, Bell & Ross wisely chose to make the date window round. A simple but highly effective solution for maintaining balance in an otherwise round watch, the alternative of course being a square date window that would detract from the balance. The exception to the circular theme are the broad angular hands which are contrasted in order to stand out for a higher degree of legibility. This is thoughtful design, and easily appreciated when you can recognize its effect on how easy the Bell & Ross Geneva 123 is to live with. The Geneva series comes in several flavors, even in solid 18k gold. There is also a chronograph version available as the Bell & Ross Geneva 126. Starting in the low $2000 range, the Bell & Ross Geneva series is priced competitively between Swiss and German watch designs. Fit and finish is highly respectabl, and of particular interest is the steel bracelet that is particularly well engineered. For a perpetually satisfying watch suitable for any occasion, formal or otherwise, the Bell & Ross Geneva 123 should be serious considered.
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| Fratello Friday: 4 Vintage Omega Watches Under $1,000 |
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WatchTime has asked me to publish a series of blog posts about replica U-Boat watches. As you probably know by now, on Fratellowatches.com we have a Speedmaster topic every Tuesday, called Speedy Tuesday. A successful series of articles also resulted in a “Speedy Tuesday” Event (photo report here) at the official ‘Space Expo’ visitors’ center of the European Space Agency in The Netherlands. However, the Speedmaster is just one of many models in the replica breitling bentley catalog. With this series of omega replica articles, we will zoom in on some of the other interesting models that Omega manufactured (or still manufactures). This first post is about my personal picks of Omega watches that can be had for under $1,000. That’s right, even though new Omega watches are far more expensive, $1,000 or less can still buy you some very interesting vintage or pre-owned models from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s. Many are watches that are renowned for their quality in-house movements by collectors and enthusiasts. As collecting vintage Omega watches — especially the Seamaster and Speedmaster models — gets more popular, prices have gone up drastically over the last decade. However, it is still possible to get other interesting watches under $1,000. Many are in the Constellation collection, once Omega’s flagship model. The collection goes back to 1952 and Constellation watches are praised for their precise chronometer movements. An all-gold Constellation was more expensive than a Rolex Day-Date with President bracelet back in the 1950s and ’60s. All-gold Omega Constellations cost well over $4,000 – $5,000 these days, but are still cheaper to source than an all-gold Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803 with President bracelet. Omega’s Seamaster watches go back to 1948 and, in addition to the famous Seamaster 300 diving models, Omega made a number of Seamaster dress watches that are worth checking out. The fact that these watches can be found for under $1,000 has little to do with their quality or beauty; the issue with most of them is that today’s watch enthusiasts find their 34-mm case diameters to be too small. Other find that, when worn on a nice leather strap, such a watch makes the perfect dress watch for formal occasions. The era in which you could find a Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” for under $1,000 is over, however, unless you’re lucky enough to find someone who doesn’t know what he or she is selling. Here’s what I found during a quick search on the interwebs. Omega Constellation Reference 2852 10SC, ca.1961 Let’s start with a couple of Constellation models you should be able to source for under a grand. Although this watch looks a bit used, worn, or perhaps even “damaged,” some might appreciate its “patina.” Although I am not too fond of dials that are scarred, this one does show that the watch has seen a bit of the world. This piece reminds me of an old, comfy-looking leather Chesterfield couch. This is an early 1960s model that has a Caliber 505 movement. These first series of Caliber 50x movements came right after their bumper movements (Caliber 354 and so on) and are considered to be solid performers. After the 50x series, Omega came up with the 55x and 56x movements, which are improved versions. Just like all other Constellation watches of that period, this one was chronometer-rated. The dial has the “officially certified chronometer” wording and the movement has “adjusted to 5 positions and temperatures” engraved. This reference 2852 10SC Constellation has a 35-mm case diameter and has the fancy lugs and and 10-sided winding crown. The dial has quite a bit of patina, but is still very readable, with large dauphine hands. It’s not shown in the pictures, but on the caseback of this Constellation (as on all the current models, as well, I believe) is an embossing of an observatory. This particular model has a gold emblem on the back, with the Geneva observatory. Omega Constellation Ref. 2852 Omega Constellation ‘C’ Model reference 168.017 ca.1968 Later in the 1960s, Omega came up with a different case design for the Constellation collection. While the famous round “pie-pan” models were still available during the time, Omega also introduced the “C”-shaped model. The one I picked is Reference 168.017. It contains automatic Caliber 564, which has a quick-set feature. This model appears to be larger than the round models, mainly due to the integrated lugs, but is also just 35-mm in diameter. It certainly wears larger, though. You will also be able to find these models from a later period with a 300-Hz tuning-fork movement. Although the case shape is a bit peculiar for today’s tastes, perhaps, the dial is something you should pay attention to. It has a very nice texture, which is a bit difficult to see in the picture, and the stick-shaped hour markers have onyx inlays. The caseback has the Geneva Observatory emblem, of course. As you can see on the picture of the movement, the gold-copper finish is very nice to look at. If you are going to buy a vintage Omega with a similar caliber, make sure to have a peek at the movement before you buy. Some of them have green spots (moisture) or patina (also moisture) and if there are too many of these spots, I would leave the watch alone. Omega Constellation Ref. 168017SP Omega Constellation Ref. 168017SP-back Omega Seamaster De Ville 166.020 ca.1968 Before the De Ville became a stand-alone collection of watches, Omega used this name for some of the dress watches in its Seamaster collection. A number of these Seamaster dress watches actually are not that much different from the Constellation watches, except that the Constellation models always had chronometer-certified movements and the cases were a bit fancier. This Seamaster De Ville also has an automatic caliber (565) and has a gold-capped case. Do not mistake this for a plaque or double; it is more like a shell of solid gold that goes over a stainless-steel case. You could say these were the two-tone watches of that era. Unfortunately, the watch in this photo does not have an original crown (it is unsigned and slightly too big) but with a bit of luck you might find either an original spare crown, or even a model with the correct crown. The stainless steel caseback has the Seamaster logo and Seahorse image embossed. Omega Seamaster Deville - 1968 - Ref 166020 Omega Genève Chronostop ca.1970 Omega’s Genève collection is a bit odd, to be honest. It was used as a label for all different sorts of watches, from dress watches like the ones above to sporty watches such as the Genève Dynamic models of the 1970s. One of the Genève models I really like is the Chronostop watch. It was hard to find one under $1,000, as the model is relatively popular for a small-cased watch, but I managed to do so. This particular watch’s movement is Caliber 865, based on Lemania Caliber 2225. It has a monopusher chronograph function. As you can see, the watch has only one pusher, which is used to start, pause (not stop), and reset the red seconds hand. By pushing it once, the chronograph hand starts to run. If you want to stop the time, you have to push it and keep it down. If you release the button, it will reset to zero again. Omega Chronostop (All the above photos are sourced from eBay or other watch-selling platforms.) Other Omega watches that would fit the $1,000 bill include the 1970s Omega Genève Dynamic, a gold-capped Omega Seamaster Calendar with the date aperture at 6 o’clock, and a number of other Constellation and Seamaster references. One of the fun parts of the quest is the challenge of finding one that’s the right watch for you and also in good shape. Give up any hopes to find a Constellation or Seamaster in gold, or to get one with box, papers and original invoice, for this kind of money. However, if you do come across one, do not hesitate. |
2014 年 5 月 30 日 星期五  |
| Bell & Ross BR01-94 Pro Titanium Carbon Fiber Watch Review 2 |
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In titanium this BR01-94 Pro is light, but not ultra light given the size of the case. Perhaps in steel it would prove unwieldly to some. I like the very sharp angles cut in the bezel as well the brushed finishing on the surfaces of the case. By the way, if you don’t dig the carbon fiber of the dial, there is a similar dial in a matte gray that doesn’t look too bad. As a chronograph, the subdials are nicely incorporated for legibility, but it is obvious that the case is much larger than the movement. I do wonder what the dial would have looked like if replica Bell & Ross had a larger diameter movement with sub dials that could better fit the case. I believe there is a larger Valgranges movement produced by ETA, but they are quite rare to see actually. With that said, the BR01-94 Pro Titanium Carbon Fiber includes a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movement. Don’t miss the round date window located between 4 and 5 o’clock. replica rolex gets a lot of heat from certain collectors and others love the brand. I personally find it difficult to understand how this is a polarizing brand. Sure they have some polarizing pieces, when it comes to reasonable stuff, replica panerai luminor is produces a lot of it. Though with a piece like the BR01-94 Pro I can see how people can love or hate this watch that looks like it was meant to go on people who operate mechanized implements of war. Some of the details on the watch I like include the rectangular chronograph pushers, textured crown, and relatively thin case profile. This is a watch that could have been taller, and thankfully it is not. While I don’t think Bell & Ross is producing the BR01-94 Pro Titanium Carbon Fiber any longer, I am sure you can still find a few here and there. A few years after its debut, the piece certainly feels more like a “then” product than a “here and now.” There is a slightly over-the-top, non conservative quality that doesn’t jive perfectly with today’s watch market. See how things can change in just a few years? Nevertheless, I still find it to be a fun timepiece. Retail price is $7,500. |
| Baselworld 2014: Omega De Ville Trésor with New Antimagnetic |
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Along with its new Speedmaster Professional and Speedmaster Mark II watches, omega replica also unveiled at Baselworld 2014 an elegant men’s model, the replica breitling bentley De Ville Tresor, which is an update of a vintage replica U-Boat watch from 1949 and contains the brand’s new Master Co-Axial Caliber 8511, designed for maximum resistance to magnetic fields. The original Omega De Ville Trésor (French for “treasure”), released nearly 50 years ago, was characterized by its thin, classical gold case and contained a 30-mm Omega movement. The new model harks back to that watch’s retro design but upgrades the interior substantially by outfitting it with one of the most advanced Co-Axial movements that the brand has produced. Omega Master Co-Axial Caliber 8511 is a manual-winding movement that includes a time zone function, an 18k rose gold balance bridge, a Si14 silicon balance spring, and, of course, Omega’s hallmark three-level co-axial escapement. The movement is also a COSC-certified chronometer and, most notably, features Omega’s exclusive anti-magnetic technology, which enables the watch to resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss (a technology that debuted to great fanfare in an Omega Seamaster watch last year). Omega De Ville Tresor - front Omega_DeVille_Tresor_reclining_560The case — available in yellow gold, white gold, or Omega’s proprietary Sedna gold (more on which here) — measures 40 mm in diameter and has a box-form scratch-resistant sapphire crystal over the silvery opaline dial. The dial is domed and is decorated with a vintage Clou de Paris pattern. The hands and hour markers are made of 18k gold; the hour and minute hands are arched to complement the curvature of the dial and crystal. Another domed sapphire crystal can be found in the back of the case, providing a view of the movement. The polished caseback also sports the engraved words “ANTI-MAGNETIC,” “15,000 GAUSS,” and “Si14.” The Omega De Ville Tresor is water-resistant to 30 meters and comes on a black or brown leather strap with polished 18k gold buckle. Prices are $13,800 for the yellow-gold and Sedna-gold models and $15,000 for the white-gold version. All come with a four-year warranty. |
2014 年 5 月 29 日 星期四  |
| Rolex Submariner Review: 114060 & 116610 1 |
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replica Bell & Ross is as much a lifestyle as it is a watch brand, but we feel that a hands-on replica rolex Submariner review is still necessary as it is meant to be worn and used. The company is a legend, and their products are the cornerstone of an industry that sells dreams, status, quality and ideally, value. Whether or not individual entities in the luxury industry can deliver on these promises is a different story, but what makes replica panerai luminor so famous is its consistent ability to actually deliver these goals to a large degree. So today I look at probably the most popular Rolex product, the Submariner. For review, I am looking at two Submariner models in steel. These represent the newest generation Submariner timepieces and are often referred to as the Rolex Submariner Date and Submariner No Date. The difference between them should be clear. One has a date window with magnifier over that window on the sapphire crystal, while the No Date has none of that for a cleaner looking dial. While the difference is minor, it is these little differences which are important to Rolex fans, and the price difference between the two is not inconsequential. While I am very well-versed in all things “watches,” I don’t consider myself to be a Rolex expert compared to many people that I know. I have a basic understanding of the brand’s history, the evolution of its products, and what is appealing about watches like the Submariner. Other people have extremely detailed knowledge of each and every product, hard-to-find timepieces, differences in products as they evolves, etc… The purpose of this review is to discuss the modern Rolex Submariner to the mainstream watch lovers and those interested in why this is a worthy timepiece. In short, the Submariner started the dive watch craze that made those types of sport watches the most desirable type of timepiece on the planet – and with its crown logo, the Rolex Submariner thematically rules over the lot. Let me state now that the Submariner is not the most expensive, most durable, most complicated, or best looking high-end dive watch around. There are dozens of more expensive steel sport watches, and tons that can take much more of a beating. Rolex is also known for making very good, but simple movements (for the most part). Rolex mechanical movements have a reputation for being rather accurate, long-lived, and easy to work on. Many of the watch makers that I’ve spoken to voice positive sentiments in working on Rolex movements. Still, servicing a mechanical watch is not all that cheap. Inside of these two Submariner models are two different movements (because one contains the date and the other doesn’t) but practically speaking they are more or less the same. The Rolex Submariner Date (Ref. 116610 AKA 116610LN) contains the in-house made Rolex caliber 3135 automatic movements, while the Submariner No Date contains the Rolex caliber 3130. Both of the movements feature Rolex’s newer Parachrom hairsprings and have a power reserve of about two days when fully wound. Rolex also has the majority of their watches (including all Submariner models) COSC Chronometer certified. The 3135 and 3130 are about as good as can be hoped for from relatively basic three-hand automatic movements. No one per se buys a Rolex for the movement, but at the same time, the movements don’t really leave much to be desired given the price and intended use. They are durable and mechanically sound – enough said. Rolex claims to have invented the water-tight watch case with the Oyster. True enough, they did produce the first commercially noteworthy water resistant watch with the Oyster. For that reason you see the “Oyster” label on a lot of Rolex products, even though there isn’t a Rolex watch called the Oyster these days. It is a signifier that the watch is water resistant. Of course the Submariner is more than just that. Originally designed as a commercial diver’s watch in the 1950s, the Submariner today has a water resistance of 300 meters and a design that is incredibly similar to the original. This design that mixes sport and professional looks is one of the key factors to the design’s success. The dial of the Submariner is clever, yet easy on the eyes. The black and white design is meant to offer a high contrast for easy reading of the time. The lumed indicators and hands are meant to make it easy to read in the dark. A different style of hour and minute hand are there for legibility, and a special character for the 12 o’clock indicator is meant to make it easy to mentally orient the dial when looking at it from the side. Rolex also uses 18k white gold on the dial for the hands and hour indicators. A few years ago Rolex switched from a green toned lumed to a blue one. This not only made the lume glow blue, but allows for it to look more white during the day. Rolex also increased the size of the hands and hour markers a few years ago when they introduced their “Maxi dial” style which I personally liked, but of course proved controversial. Every change the brand makes is controversial, even when they did something small such as removing the lug spring bar holes on the exterior of the case. The Submariner dial is a testament to legibility and functionality. The Submariner is a tool watch with a slick design that lasted the test of time. It is good because it was never design to be anything more than a good looking, legible dial. It is a tool, and we like tools that work well. Rolex also makes their own dials. Precision machining and printing on the dial is very good. When you look at a Submariner’s dial closeup, you’ll notice that the lume is evenly applied, and that everything is cut very well. Even though the Submariner is a tool watch at heart, Rolex knows it is a luxury item today. So there are little things here and there meant for looks more than function. A good example is the sapphire crystal. Rolex applies a coat of AR on the bottom of the crystal, but not on the top. This allows for the top of the crystal to be reflective and sort of makes it more shiny to onlookers. This is arguably a design decision by Rolex to make their products stand out more. It works too. The Submariner case has changed very little over the years, but each improvement is welcome. The current size of the Submariner is 40mm wide, but it wears large for that size. This is because of the lug structure. I would say that the piece wears closer to a 42mm wide watch. Rolex famously uses plain casebacks on its watches. The Submariner’s screw-in caseback is devoid of any markings. The watches I have for review were loaned from our friends at the Rolex boutique nearby in Beverly Hills. We agreed not to remove the protective plastic on the sides of case, which you’ll probably see in the pictures. There is also a type of bar code on the side of the case which is a serial identifier. That is removed when people buy the watch. Rolex uses a grade of steel called 904L. Most steel watches use 316L steel. The differences are minor, but involve more corrosion resistance in 904L steel from what I understand. So if your Submariner spends a lot of time in saltwater, then it will look better. |
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