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2014 年 11 月 10 日  星期一   晴天


breitling Millenary Minute Repeater Watch 分類: 未分類

 For 2011 one of breitling's exotic complication pieces will be this Millenary Minute Repeater watch. I was told by http://www.speedroc.com/replica-breitling-bentley-motors-t-speed.html that their Millenary line is undergoing an overhaul. Looks like 2011 will not be the year we see new Millenary cases and style, but we will see this sophisticated Minute Repeater with another interesting balance wheel and escapement device.

The terminology throws me off a bit. There are terms like "AP Exhaust Pulse Direct." Not sure what that is, but it sounds like something from a race car, not timepiece. Previous to this new movement, replica breitling Colt showed off its AP Escapement. That escapement was really fast, to allow for greater accuracy. The AP Escapement was one that they developed to run at something like 72,000 bpm (amazing). Here in the Millenary Minute Repeater, the movement has slower 21,600 bpm movement, but AP uses one of those trendy new "double balance spring." These are pretty neat and are supposed to help cancel out error making the movement more accurate. Basically the balance spring attaches at two points (versus the older Breguet over-coil style attachment). If I had larger images I would show you a closeup of the escapement so that you could see what I am talking about.

Double balance springs (also called "double flat spiral here) work pretty well I hear, but I don't have a quantifiable number as to how much better they are. It is part of a brand new movement which is the replica breitling Superocean Chronograph 2910. It mixed that exotic new double balance spring with a minute repeater. Cause you know, having a minute repeater is never not appreciate. AP does however make it clear that the watch is NOT water resistant. Most good minute repeaters aren't - because sealing a case makes minute repeaters often sound like crap. The watch has a power reserve of 165 hours, which is really long. That is between two barrles. A third barrel is in there for the minute repeater's power needs. The movement is also neat because it is oval in shape - which I find cool.

The Millenary case here is 47mm wide and in titanium. AP is still on their "light" watch kick. At least it is not in a precious material - that would really harm the sound of minute repeater. Over on the front of the watch is a combo of a real dial and an open movement. The mix is well done from a style perspective. AP designers did a good job at combining a sense of technical sophistication with old world elegance. On the right of the dial the pink gold tones hour makers and hand are traditional and attractive. Moving to the right the dial is more futuristic. This starts with the white and red colors of the subsidiary seconds dial, as well as the open movement and exposed double balance spring style escapement. Great use of contrast by AP right?

The movement design is also interesting because of how elements are arranged. The front of the watch has elements like the minute repeater hammers and gong, as well as the escapement. These elements tends to be reserved for the back of a movement. Last, there is a new security mechanism the prevents the user from setting the time while the minute repeater function is in operation. This would otherwise potentially damage the movement. Details such as this are necessary for fully appreciating the work that went into a piece such as this. Not sure about price or how many will be made. I will learn more soon.

http://eweek.nenonline.org/userstory/cartier-launches-fine-watchmaking-ipad-app
http://blog.qooza.hk/hxpomega?eid=27444096
http://gummyads.co.uk/ads/cartier-launches-fine-watchmaking-ipad-app/
http://hxpomega.nation2.com/index.php?page=1846331117
http://hxpomega.radioactif.tv/articles/120285/golden_globes_rotonde_de_cartier_panthere_granulation_2013.html






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