At one of the vintage cars websites sites I belong to there was a member who shared an interesting experience to the forum. Below is the Readers Digest version.

The new owner (who we will call John) had seen his dream vintage car advertised on the same website referenced above. John liked what he saw, and it helped that many forum members validated how nice the car was. John set an appointment to test drive the car. When John arrived the car was even better looking than the pictures indicated. The owner decided that John was a serious buyer and wasn't a "tire kicker". They decided to take the car out for a test drive. The car started on the first turn of the key, idled smoothly, and ran perfectly. The owner let John drive back on the return trip. And even though John was taking it easy, he was able to get the tires to chirp easily in 2nd and 3rd gear.

John purchased the car, loaded it up on his trailer, and was now the proud owner of a beautiful 1970 Nova Super Sport. Since the car was almost perfect and didn't need any work, John started driving to a couple of local car cruises and classic car shows to get a feel of the car.

The next car show was about an hour and a half away. After waxing the car, and checking the fluids, John filled the gas tank. A couple of miles down the road John stopped at a red light. When the light turned green, he pulled away, and heard a light knocking/pinging noise on acceleration. The noise grew louder the longer he drove the car. The only time John heard the noise was on acceleration. If he drove the car "easy" like there was an egg under the gas pedal, the pinging was almost non existent and tolerable. If he had to pass another car and was required to accelerate, the noise got worse, and the engine didn't have the same power as his first test drive. Other than the noise, the car performed flawlessly. John drove the car to and from the show, but he was really anxious and nervous because he thought he had bought a lemon. And he wasn't a happy camper.

Long story short, some of the people reading John's story started to ask him questions. A group of them even made a special trip to John's house to take a test drive with John to see if they could determine what was happening. During the discussion one of the bystanders asked John what changes he made to the car since buying it. John replied "I didn't touch a thing, except to wash it, wax it, and I filled the gas tank". The bystander said, "I am going to take a leap here" then he asked "what kind of gas did you put in it"?

Let me jump ahead here in the story, and explain why this is so important.

High performance cars from the 60's and early 70's require high performance gasoline. Unless the engine has already been modified, pre-1971 cars require leaded high octane gasoline to run correctly. Because leaded gasoline is no longer sold in the United States, owners of these types of vehicles need to buy lead substitute additives (around $2-$5 per bottle). A bottle is generally good for one tank of gas. Lead is critical because it acts as a lubricant for the internal engine parts and stops them from wearing out prematurely. Engines built in 1971 and later are built to run on unleaded gas so adding lead substitute is not needed. In fact, lead damages Catalytic Converters, which are required on cars built after 1977, and is more harmful to the environment. Adding a lead additive to a pre-1971 engine will literally prevent the engine from beating itself to death.

John's experience was something that happens to many vintage car owners. The reason the Nova ran great with the previous owner was because he used a 92 octane gasoline and added a bottle of lead substitute with every fill-up. When John filled the gas tank he used the same 87 octane gasoline he uses for his everyday driver. He never gave any thought to what type of gas he was running. Most people don't buy vintage cars for gas mileage and economy reasons. Therefore it only took a couple of weekends of local driving before John needed to fill up his gas tank again. Now the engine was off of its "design point", meaning it was never intended to run on low octane, unleaded fuel. The engine started to ping and knock under a load, as soon as the new gas was being burned.

When John shared his story on the forum, there was about a quarter of a tank of economy gas left. He added a bottle of octane booster, a bottle of lead substitute, and filled the rest of the tank with 92 octane premium gas. Since then, John's car has been running perfectly.

An original pre 70's engine which has not been modified for unleaded fuel will need a little help in the gas department. Always use the highest octane possible. A bottle of good octane booster and a lead substitute will help maximize performance and the engine's longevity. You should be purchasing the highest octane gas possible because a high octane rating prevents knocking and pinging. Supreme unleaded (92 octane) is fine and should be used for most engines and everyday driving.

Owners of truly high performance engines, meaning a compression ratio greater than 10.0:1, must use an octane booster to keep their engines running smoothly. Octane boosters will also help if you plan to race your car occasionally or whenever you want a little more power Autel Maxisys MS908CV. Remember, racing fuel in the 104 octane category and higher is expensive and sometimes hard to find Autel MaxiSys MS906TS.

Racing fuel should only be used if you truly have an engine built for racing and is overkill for a street car.

Tim Leary is a serial car nut and likes nothing better to find you your long-time dream classic car!

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Buying a car takes a lot of hard work and dedication, especially if you are the one who need it most. Cars nowadays are very helpful and practical; it will take you to different places in a matter of minutes. That is why, cars are naturally expensive.

Cars are beneficial to both the seller and the seller. The sellers gain profit and money through their sweat and tears; while you, who benefit it by using the car that caters to your daily needs. However, there is a question that is mostly asked: how can a deal make both the seller and the buyer be positive and favorable?

With that, here are some useful tips that will both advantageous to both sellers and buyers when dealing in cars:

Buy a car when it's off-peak season Autel MaxiPRO MP808TS. Most people are too engrossed with other matters, especially during Christmas and holidays. During these periods, the prices of the car drop because only few people would likely buy the product. You will not only get the best deal; the seller would also be more than willing to sell you the car for a lower price since they are looking for ways to dispose the car to await for the new arrivals autel maxisys ms906. The sellers would agree to any price as long as the cars are sold before the year ends.

Even if it's not been driven, the car prices tend to depreciate over time; and will be considered old. These cars will be sold at lower prices at the same time when the new models arrive. This is a good opportunity for you to get a bargained car, especially when sellers want to get rid of old cars. The only set back is that you won't really have a choice to pick for your own car.

If you are an Internet savvy, use this chance to browse for the best prices online. Check for the retail price, download it or print it, and present it to the dealer so that you won't be tricked of being offered with a high priced car. Seeing no way out, the dealer will have no choice but to submit to the original price level.

When you get a loan, don't be fooled when a financer tells you that you are not eligible for a loan. These are one of the tricks where he will entice you to apply with a higher rate. Avoid these kinds of financers and opt for another lender who can provide you with a reasonable interest rate.

When you are finally decided on the right model, make sure that you have been offered with the stated price before pay the initial amount. Ensure that the salesman give you the proper documents and price you with the exact amount.

Finally, if you are in desperate need of selling your old car, start looking for a new car. Dispose your car through reselling it with a depreciation value. Just be sure that the old car is still in good condition with the usual features present in a typical car.

If you are looking for the best car buying tips , check out www.insidecarsecrets.com , where you will learn how to save 60% or even more on your next car buy.

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We don't have long left to make the very best of the scrappage scheme. That £2000 plus as decided by the government during the depths of the recession last year will soon be running out, and as soon as that happens people who want new cars will have to deal with a hefty price increase and certain shortage of bargains. Of course, it probably makes more sense to go for a used car cash-wise anyway, so it is with that in mind that I suggest choosing and researching Toyota as your brand of choice.

Why is Toyota my suggestion? Because their cars are well known for their reliability Autel MK808, and, actually, for their safety. Also, these cars aren't rip offs, meaning that you can do your research and even if the scheme runs out you can still buy a used Toyota cheaply, which should make up for some of the sense of lost you will be feeling. New or used, this brand offers the best of both worlds in sporty fun little shells.

At the lower end of the Toyota range are a series of energetic and tenacious city cars, ranging from tiny little run-arounds to surprisingly spacious 4X4 aspiring hatchbacks. These are the cheapest cars, and probably the most desirable cars, in the Toyota range. If you need something really compact and efficient, choose the teeny little IQ. Here the scrappage will make this incredibly cheap - and if it runs out before you finish your research then you can head to a used Toyota dealership and buy it at a massive saving anyway.

Unfortunately the IQ isn't very sensible for people who are too tall, or who need any sort of space. They do technically have some room, but really what you should consider is thinking about buying an Aygo. They aren't quite as wondrously cheap, but this are comprehensive little hatchbacks. Hatchbacks purists choose the Toyota Yaris - but to be honest the Aygo would suit me just as well, especially for nipping around urban roads in towns and cities. I think lots of clever city types realise this too, and choose the compact Aygo to make life easier when searching out few and far between parking spaces.

Of course, the scrappage savings don't make such tempting offers when you get up to some of Toyotas bigger cars. The Land Cruiser and the Hylus, whilst great spacious and functional cars, simply don't get affected in the same way by the £2000 discount! In these cases I would always recommend opting for a nearly new or used Toyota, as they will save you so much more money. Even if it is just a year old the savings are bound to beast the scrappage scheme numbers, losing you the VAT instantly and plenty of depreciation something after that.

This all just goes to show what a difference the scrappage scheme can make if used wisely - and when it is sensible to choose used in stead Autel MaxiSys MS908. Either way, Toyota as a brand is a good way to go!

Pete J Ridgard is a writer and a car enthusiast. He currently writes for the automotive industry. Here he discusses Used Toyota cars.

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A used motorcycle is a great way for someone to discover the thrill of the open road and the sense of freedom that bike enthusiasts say comes with a good ride. A used motorcycle also lends people the opportunity to get a bike that has been customized autel maxisys ms906, though such a machine is rare outside the continental US. However, whenever someone decides to buy a used bike, there are a few things to watch out for to make sure one does not end up being scammed.

The most obvious part of the used motorcycle to check out would be the tires and wheels. Tires are the components of the bike that typically get the most abuse. Wear and tear on bike tires are to be expected, especially if the person selling the machine is an avid biker. However, it is advisable to check for uneven wear on the tire, as a sign of the tires being used with incorrect air pressure. Incorrect air pressure on the wheel can result in something as mundane as bad handling to something drastic like shortening the lifespan of the wheels and tires. In relation, a buyer should make certain to check the wheels as well. Once the wheel is spun, it should not move from sideways, as that can indicate either damage or loose parts. If the wheels do not spin normally after braking, it shows a problem with the brakes.

Naturally, whenever purchasing a used motorcycle, a buyer should check the brakes. This includes parts like the drum, the cylinder, and the brake disc. These parts should be checked carefully for damage or wear. It is also a good idea to manually operate everything, to determine the parts' overall condition. For obvious reasons, if the brakes aren't functioning properly, the bike isn't worth buying. Bike brakes can be very expensive to have repaired and the price for replacing them often borders on the insane for non-enthusiasts, so checking the brake system before buying a used bike can save the buyer thousands in repair costs.

Making sure the used motorcycle is in running condition is also advisable. Make sure all the levers and systems still work properly and there is nothing loose or damaged among the movable parts. For most designs, the front of the bike is the easiest to damage and is a relatively easy area of the bike to inspect. There are a lot of places on a bike that can have a loose screw, a damaged cable, or a defective engine "kill" switch. Minor things, like dents and scratches, should be checked out as well. A buyer should also check the handlebars, to see if those parts have been bent or dented, since such signs would indicate that the bike has been toppled or knocked down. A buyer must take notice of the side where the throttle control is, since a bent handlebar on that side can cause difficulty in keeping the bike controlled properly Autel Diaglink.

A used motorcycle has to be checked thoroughly to make certain the buyer is getting what he paid for and nothing less. The typical bike is more prone to wear and tear than the typical car, so a used motorcycle likely has seen at least one small dent since it was first purchased. By simply practicing a little caution, a buyer should have no problem getting the most from the bike without having to pay for expensive upgrades.

For more valuable information on Used Motorcycle, please visit

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When buying a car, do you A; go for brand new model and pay the full price, getting everything tailored to your taste? Or do you B; go for a second hand model at a slightly cut down price that may be full of character and style, but has been ultimately chosen by someone else, for someone else?

In one corner, it's easy to see the appeal of a new shiny metallic Jaguar XF with the exact exterior paint colour and warm charcoal leather interior you hand picked. With the extensive choice now on offer, each car can now effectively be unique. From heated seats and headrests to an electric rear window sunblind, each tiny detail you decide to add (or choose to do without) moulds your new car to your own personality. But with each of these choices adding a little (or rather a lot actually) to increase the price tag, is it really worth it?

So, why not think about buying a second hand XF? In truth the XF's can't really be that out of date anyway, 3 years at the most, so you know that you're buying something that's still very much in style. As well as that there's the obvious decrease in price, and depending on each individual car, you'd get a certain amount of the afore mentioned gadgetry already built in. You can also rest your conscience a little that you are recycling a car, instead of buying a brand new model that will have had a huge impact on the environment during its manufacture.

However, if the environmental impact does nothing to sway your choice, then if you're considering buying second hand you might need to mull over some of these points. Like the huge increase in the mileage and general wear and tear that could mean you need to factor in repair costs Autel MaxiSys MS906BT, and new tyres and new break pads at the very least.

Also, it's worth considering that if you're going to buy an XF second hand, you're still looking at 38 to 40 thousand so why not pay a little more to have it custom made to your own tastes? Heated outside windows here or a voice activated navigation system there?

Although luxury has always been high on the agenda at Jaguar it has never been forgotten that in essence a car should simply be able to get you comfortably and safely from A to B, have enough seats for the passengers, and hopefully enough boot space for their luggage. The XF is a brilliant model whether it's filled with extras or not. It's improvement in space over the S-type is great, from the added boot space to the heightened headroom. So however much you feel (or don't feel) you really need all those little gadgets and options that make your vehicle individual Autel MaxiSys Pro, at the end of the day, a new or used Jaguar XF is going to be a good investment.

Pete J Ridgard is a writer and a car enthusiast. He currently writes for the automotive industry. Here he discusses Used Jaguar cars.

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