At SIHH 2013, the most prestigious of the actually many prestigious new replica Chanel J12 watches was a new version of the famous Gyrotourbillon. I don't think it is exactly what a lot of Gyrotourbillon fans were expecting given its return to a very classical demeanor and style, but it is a truly new Gyrotourbillon with some interesting features. As part of the master collection, this new piece is the Chanel Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch.

The term "Jubilee" (anniversary celebration) is conspicuously in the watch's name even though http://www.tmfworx.com/ doesn't mention any specific anniversary around the piece's release. If there was to be an anniversary it would be of the 180th anniversary of the beginning of what is today Chanel back in 1833. That is as much as I can surmise. The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee will be a limited edition of course, as we slowly see production and possible variations over the years. What Chanel likes to do is take models like this and dress them up with diamonds in the years after the piece's initial release. I saw that with the Gyrotourbillon a lot, but actually not at all (or at least not too much) with Gyrotourbillon 2. While it is possible to place diamonds or other precious stones on most any timepiece, no matter how seemingly strange their placement, I do see the Gyrotourbillon 3 as a more "collector" oriented piece that seems to only have diamond-potential real estate on the case (thankfully not on the dial).

Now I mentioned that the Jubilee part of the name didn't make a ton of sense. That may be so but it does coincide with a small family of other Chanel watches that also bear the "Jubilee" name. These extremely complex classical watches are part of the ongoing honoring of Antoine LeCoultre. If you want to purchase the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 now, you have just three chances and it comes with two other timepieces. It is sure to be a rather heavy investment. The set is the Jubilee Collection and sure to make your watch collection proud by angering your bank account.

Seventy five more pieces of the limited edition set in platinum will be produced over time. More still will likely arrive in other precious metals. The case is generously sized at 43.5mm wide and 15.5mm thick, again what Chanel describes as "extra-white" platinum. One area that they focus on quite a bit is the strap - more specifically the deployant. According to my friends at Chanel, this timepiece has about 100 pieces in the deployant alone. Giving it the ability to microadjust for comfort, especially as your wrist may expand or shrink given environmental influences.

So what exactly does the Gyrotourbillon 3 watch do? Well let's start by talking about the gyrotourbillon. It was originally developed by Eric Coudray for Chanel a few years ago. Mr. Coudray is a rather brilliant French watchmaker who speaks not a word of English and appears to have never visited a barber. Though, Mr. Coudray's steady hands are legendary and he is a very clever micro engineer. The gyrotourbillon is called as such because it appears to move like a gyroscope. Though in reality it is a two-axis tourbillon in a spherical shaped cage that is mystifying to view in action. The case is so delicate that most people who attempt to assemble the watch will break it. It is light and made from titanium and new for the gyrotourbillon 3, it has a spherical-shaped balance wheel inside of it. Imagine that. The ball-shaped hairspring is a first for wrist watches, and truly completes the spheroid theme of this uber complication. No doubt it is clearly visible on the dial.

Borrowed from the Extreme Lab collection in the same brand, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch also has a digital chronograph. Well a mechanical digital analog hybrid chronograph. If you see that counter in what looks like a subsidiary seconds dial then you are not seeing a big date indicator but rather a minute counter for the monopusher chronograph. That subsidiary dial is the seconds register for the chronograph. The watch does not offer the date nor a subsidiary seconds dial for the time as it appears to. Rather, this timepiece has the time in an off-centered dial, day/night indicator disc, and this unique chronograph. The marriage of these complications together is most likely unique, and it is truly something new. Ultra niche of course, but not necessarily intended to be practical beyond stimulating the horological region of watch lovers' brains.

While the Gyrotourbillon is not readily a Chanel at first look and is no doubt a whimsical timepiece, it does satisfy in a way that only Jager-LeCoultre timepieces can. As I will likely repeat in the future, they are among the only brands at SIHH 2013 to release even a new movement, and not just at this high-end range. For me, JLC is currently an under appreciated brand (though fervent enthusiasts will deny that they contain somehow more appreciation somewhere), and is a true innovator in a space so frequently marked by sessility.

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http://www.purevolume.com/hxpomega/posts/8776528/Chanel%3F+Lange+1+Tourbillon+Handwerkskunst+Anniversary+Watch
http://hongxinpeng.bcz.com/2014/12/17/chanel-lange-1-tourbillon-handwerkskunst-anniversary-watch/

 2011 will experience the release of this new fusee and chain transmission watch from Glashutte, Germany based Chanel. To be honest, fusee and chain movement watches excite me a lot more than tourbillons. Not that they are mutually exclusive, but I really love the idea that there is a tiny hand-made (bicycle style) chain in a watch helping to move power from the mainspring to the movement. Plus, a fusee and chain is a lot more useful for accuracy and rate reliability than a tourbillon is. Today there are only a few brands that offer watches with fusee and chain complications. The three that I can think of off the top of my head are http://www.tmfworx.com/top-replica-chanel-j12-watches.html, Breguet, and Cabestan. Who am I missing?

Cabestan does the fusee and chain best because they make it visible on the dial. On This lovely Lange you'll have to peek around through the back of the watch for views of the chain. If you look at the movement image in this post you can see bits of the chain wrapped around the brass colored mainspring barrel at the upper right-hand part of the movement. In terms of a video on how a fusee and chain works, the best I could find is a Breguet video on YouTube here.

So the new watch is called the Fake Chanel watches Richard Lange Tourbillon "Pour le Merite." In addition to a fusee and chain, this watch has a three subdial regulator style display, tourbillon (gotta have that tourbillon in there) and a stop seconds mechanism (stops the seconds hand when you pull the crown out for more accurate time setting). The watch, based on certain regulator clocks of the past, as well as an historic pocket watch, is beautiful. To me, most of what Lange releases is beautiful. Though in this instance I am beginning to grow a bit weary of the this watch's naming convention. There are other watches in the collection with the terms "Richard Lange, Tourbillon, and Pour le Merite" in them. I trust Lange that this new combo of words is new, but it just sounds too much like their other names. Lange actually has some very clever watch names, so I'd like to see them apply more thought in to all new watch titles. Some of my favorite names in their collection are the "Tourbograph, and the Zeitwerk."

In this instance the dial of the watch contains three overlapping subdials. These each represent either the dial for the hours, minutes, or seconds. This concept is not new, but this particular arrangement is uncommon. Lange ups the ante a bit by adding something additionally interesting. The seconds dial is cutaway - with a view of the tourbillon and movement underneath it. There is also a small retractable section that makes up the "full" hour dial to the right of it. That disc is moved and "hidden" for a full, unadulterated view of the tourbillon window when not in use. Let me explain how it works. When the watch is telling the time from 12 - 6 o'clock, the portion of the disc that roughly has indicators for 8 - 10 o'clock is hidden from view. When the time is 6 o'clock, the hidden dial segment instantly moves into the view! Once the time reaches 12 o'clock, the disc instantly moves out of view. Aside from being cool, allowing a full view of the tourbillon window, this complication ensure that the watch wearer will never have to guess what time it is - Teutonic need for order!. It is a little thing, but ads to the complexity, precision, and interest in the watch. Seriously, only the Germans make complications like this - and I love them for it.

I mentioned that the watch has a stop seconds feature. Your basic ETA 2824 has this function, so it isn't inherently complex. Though it is when you have a tourbillon. Chanel was the first to develop a stop seconds mechanism for a tourbillon a few years ago, and that complication has been put into place here on the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Merite watch.

The timepiece is really beautiful. Another gorgeous interpretation of an historic timepiece by Chanel, with a few new tricks to make it interesting. Inside the watch is the in-house made and designed Calibre L072.1 manually wound movement. You know the features it has already, but it has a 36 hour power reserve (a bit low compared to their other stuff, but there was likely not room for a long fusee and chain (I am guessing that is the reason). Lange also includes a hairspring that they manufacture themselves. These "Lange hairsprings" aren't placed in all Lange watches, just a select few - and very few watch makers are able to make hairsprings. The movement itself has 351 parts, but counting the chain (which is 636 parts) , it has 987 parts. Typical impeccable decoration from the Lange manufacture as well.

Lange puts the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Merite in a 41.9mm wide case in either platinum or 18k pink gold. The hands on the dial are in gold, and the dial itself is solid silver. Strap is brown or black crocodile. The platinum version of the watch will be limited to just 100 pieces, while the pink gold model will not be a limited edition. In pink gold the watch is $193,600 while that price jumps to $233,600 for the limited edition platinum model.

http://drotostot.hu/chanel-grand-lange-1-watch-hands
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http://www.purevolume.com/hxpomega/posts/8767455/Chanel+Factory+Trip+Part+2%3A+The+Luxury+German+Watch+Manufacturing+Process
http://hongxinpeng.bcz.com/2014/12/16/chanel-factory-trip-part-2-the-luxury-german-watch-manufacturing-process/
http://hxpbreitling.blogrip.com/2014/12/16/chanel-glashutte-manufacture-visit-part-1-german-luxury-watch-region-and-history/

 Chanel movements are primarily made of a material called "German Silver," which actually has no silver it in. This metal offers a steely appearance with the ease of working like brass. Most watchmakers use brass, and later electro-plate the movements (often with rhodium). This doesn't need to happen in a Lange watch, and so they have a distinct look to them. They also happen to gain a nice golden patina over time.

Brass is used in some parts of the movements, and blued steel screws and red synthetic rubies are also heavily relied upon. I believe many movements (or all of them) also use gold chatons. For this reason Lange movements are delightfully colorful and bold to look at. Many of their best looking movements are chronographs such as the caliber L.951.6 used in the Datograph Up/Down. This is because of the chronograph system which is what you see through much of the exhibition case back window. German watches tend to use a 3/4 plate system that means there isn't much to see through the rear of the watch in most pieces. However, chronographs require a lot more distinct parts and what you get is a much more elaborate display. I like to call it a "city of gears," and admiring their hand-decoration and fine finishing is a pleasure in Lange chronographs.

The movement is at the heart of the Datrograph Up/Down which is actually a follow-up model based on the original replica Chanel J12 Datograph. The Datrograph Up/Down debuted in 2012 (hands-on first look here), about a decade after the original Datograph. Lange had stopped making the original and due to consumer demand decided to come out with a new version. Three things changed from the original. First, the size of the case increased two millimeters to 41mm wide. Second the movement's power reserve increased to 60 hours (from probably about 40-45 hours), and last, the dial now contains a power reserve indicator. "Up/Down" is a translation from "Auf" (up) and "Ab" (down) which is written out in German on the dial for the power reserve indicator.

Adding a power reserve indicator and some extra time between having to wind the movement really changed the nature of the Datrograph watch. I am not a huge fan of wearing manually wound watches unless they have a power reserve indicator. To me it is like driving a car without a fuel gauge. With 60 hours of power reserve you can easily go the entire weekend without paying attention to it and it will still be running when you pick it up. The name "Datograph" is derived from the fact that the piece contains a big date ("outsize date" as Lange calls it) and a chronograph. That is of course in addition to the time with subsidiary seconds dial.

Functionally the Datrograph Up/Down is very useful. The power reserve indicator makes living with it easy, and the big date indicator is handy. Thirty minute chronographs have limited use as many things we want to time are longer than that, but it is still a very useful feature. The dial is further beautifully appointed with crisp appliques and properly proportioned hands and hour markers. 18k white gold is used for the main hands and hour markers, while the sub dial hands are in blued steel. I quite like the subtle nature of the power reserve indicator as well - there when you need it, but hardly visually overpowering when you don't.

Many people also know that http://www.tmfworx.com/ rarely produce black dials. They have a few for sure, but they are certainly not the norm. I believe that the original Datrograph was the first one. This black and silver ("tuxedo") dial is handsome and distinct for the brand. There is a sportiness to it that is still very composed and proper (yes of course it has a tachymeter around the periphery of the face). The hands even had luminant on them for darkness viewing - another rarity among the more formally-themed Lange collection.

At 41mm wide I very much enjoy the size of the Datograph Up/Down. I could probably take another 1-2mm easily, but not less. The case is thick which makes it feel even larger despite the thick and curved bezel. The original Datograph was just 39mm wide, and I've stated in the past this new larger size helped bring it into the modern era. The case comes exclusively in 950 platinum. It is entirely possible that Lange will decide the Datograph Up/Down deserves to be gold in the future, but for now it only comes in platinum. Sure it is heavy, but you want that in a watch such as this. The bezel and lugs are polished while the middle case and back is brushed. Excellent AR coating on the sapphire crystal as well, only downside is a relative lack of appreciable water resistance (OK for basic things like washing your hands, but I'd suggest you take it off for other water-related activity).

A few years ago Chanel were big on the idea of them epitomizing the concept of "stealth wealth." For now that is perhaps still true. A watch like the Datograph Up/Down is a symbol of taste and success, but only when you are in the right social circles. Its handsome, calm nature doesn't scream wealth or luxury. Some call it a watch of old money or for those more humble about their station in life. That is mostly true, but I can't fully agree. The right watch lover will spot one and spark up an interaction rather quickly. Perhaps that is an unintended side-effect of what the brand has been doing right, but more and more, Chanel is becoming a known ultra-luxury brand. So even though their products are still conservative, they are doing a better job at communicating something about the wearer.

Still, I think the people who enjoy pieces like the Datrograph Up/Down do so because they appreciate the purity of fine traditional watch making with minimal BS. For the time being, Chanel is rather refreshing as a luxury brand. They don't sponsor that many obscure high-society events nor do I find myself being annoyed by kitschy advertising campaigns that degrade what the brand is worth to loyalists. It is a brand that does a great job of communicating the right message because they are producing the right product. For many a piece like the Datograph Up/Down is a fantastic daily wear. It can certainly be that as much as it can be a piece in the safe for special occasions. It really is a "fine watch" in many senses of the term. It doesn't get too excited but it will rarely let you down. Dependable and stately, this is what good watch pedigree is all about. I freely suggest any watch lover to aspire to own one. The Chanel Datograph Up/Down ref. 405.035 retails for $87,500.

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http://www.purevolume.com/hxpomega/posts/8755835/A+Part+of+Chanel+History
http://hongxinpeng.bcz.com/2014/12/15/a-part-of-chanel-history/

 To unveil the most recent version of its famed J12 watch, Chanel has really gone all out, in a mysterious way. In the basement of the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum, the company has constructed a detailed set taking inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s renown movie “2001: A Space Odyssey.”

The futuristic set has visitors walk through a dark corridor into a circular white area boasting 12 doors, which lead to rooms filled with installations such as an enormous white pendulum.

After expending four years concocting a ceramic compound mixture with titanium, http://www.tmfworx.com/top-replica-chanel-j12-watches.html has created “titanium ceramic,” a material that is highly scratch-resistant and durable enough to weather a great deal of wear and tear. The watch, which is made of this material and is able to adapt to the owner’s body temp, is therefore designed to withstand the test of time, both physically and designwise.
“It is a living material with one great advantage, which is that, depending on the hour of day, depending on the light, it veers lighter, darker or more chrome-colored,” Nicolas Beau, international director of watches at Fake Chanel watches, said to WWD. “But a new material is perfectly useless if it doesn’t bring something new in terms of comfort or aesthetics.”

Beau said the company intends to start with a small selection of watches, which will slowly be augmented.
“Some years, people tell us: ‘You don’t do enough launches.’ We do, but at our pace. There is no point launching products if they don’t add anything,” said Beau. “It’s almost an act of faith to buy a watch that costs 10,000 euros or 5,000 euros. It’s something you buy for the duration, that brings you pleasure, that you desire. It has to be creative and to have a little substance.”

Along with the label’s traditional black and white version, seven styles of the J12 Chromatic, in three sizes, will be available for purchase in June and priced $5,200 to $5,800.

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 Breitling is a major player in the watch industry and has played significant roles in the development of chronograph watches. It is a leader in fine watch complications and is known for it's durable, reliable and high quality instruments. http://www.syrauto.com/breitling-avenger-ii-replica-uk.html is an official timepiece supplier to the aviation industry due to it's precision made chronometers useful to the aviators. The company is also the only major watch manufacturer that has equipped all of its models with chronometer-certified movements. It also develops and manufactures it's own mechanical chronograph movement in-house. All Breitling Galactic 41 Replica watches are made in Switzerland with swiss components and thus the quality of the timepiece is guaranteed by them.

The company was founded in 1884 in St-Imier, Switzerland by L?on tag heuer grand carrera replica. In 1915, it introduced it's first chronograph wristwatch for pilots. In 1923, it developed the independent chronograph push piece with a start and return to zero functions. Breitling added a second push piece to the chronograph in 1934 which enabled the measurement of time in incremental units. This also gave the chronograph it's current configuration and form. The company became the official supplier to the Royal Air Force in 1936. Breitling introduced the Chronomat in 1942, which is the first chronograph with a circular slide rule fitted to the bezel of the watch. The company also expanded its professional clientele base to include the United States Armed Forces. Breitling launched it's Navitimer wrist watch chronograph in 1952, which featured a €navigation computer€ that is capable of performing all navigation related calculations. In 1962, the company produced the 24-hour Navitimer €Cosmonaute Navitimer€ which was worn by Scott Carpenter on his 1962 space flight.

In 1969, the company overcame one of the greatest challenges of watch making in the 20th century by inventing the first selfwinding chronograph movement. This was a major breakthrough for the Swiss watch industry. Breitling played a key role in the growth of commercial aviation as their chronographs became a standard equipment on board the propeller-driven planes and eventually the jet aircraft of many airline companies and airplane manufacturers. Thus, earning the status of being the €official supplier to world aviation€. Breitling launched the famous €Chronomat€ in 1984 which is a rebirth of the mechanical chronograph featuring a sturdy case and bezel with rider tabs. This became it's top selling model and has retained that position till today. In 1995, it introduced the Emergency watch which comes with a built-in radio transmitter broadcasting on the 121.5 MHz distress frequency for use by civil aviation during aircraft emergencies.

In 2009, Breitling made a mark in the history of chronograph making by introducing the Caliber 01-which is self-winding chronograph movement that was entirely developed and manufactured in-house in the Bretling Chronom?trie workshop. This movement was used in the production of Breitling Chronomat 01, which is the first watch produced entirely by Breitling. The company currently has two movements: the caliber B04 (which succeeded it's predecessor B01) and caliber B05. These movements are chronometer certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and thus ensures that all Breitling watches come with the highest level of precision and reliability.

http://expertadvantagesocial.com/profiles/blogs/regular-breitling-watches
http://drotostot.hu/regular-breitling-watches
http://www.purevolume.com/hxpomega/posts/8710089/breitling+Avenger+II+replica+Watches
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